• Michal

Sailing from Athens to Santorini and back

On Saturday 1st of July we arrived to marina Kalamaki in Athens where is our boat Liberty.

Our friend Martin and Zuzana were already one day visiting the city with their two sons, Tonda (5) and Freddy (2).

At 4:30 pm we met at the marina with our friends, managed few small fixes on the boat, papers and bought small provisioning for three days.

At 7:30 pm we left marina and went on engine 45nm to island Kithnos into the bay with amazing sand beach bar. This beach is 20m width and 150m long. There is above the beach amazing view from the restaurant to the both bays on each side.

We arrived around 1am on Sunday and went immediately to sleep. At 7am I was woken up by sound of bells on goats necks. What a lovely sound which I'am familiar with from my mum's place.

After quick breakfast kids and mums went on to the beach and fathers were putting nets on relling around the boat. That is necessary when you have kids on the deck. Of course when they move around, they have to have life wests, but for better feeling we did it as a first thing in the morning.

This place is so lovely that after all day we decided to stay here one more night. The only trouble we had, that Meltemi wind was coming. It looked like on Wednesday there will be the peak about 35-40kn.

That is why we decided to leave on Monday morning to an island called Seriphos into the marina, where we will be all safe with a services around. You do not want to stay stuck somewhere with 4 little kids.

Even local fisherman did not went out to the sea, so we had to buy from one guy, what was left. 7 pieces of small fish. But the dinner was excellent anyway :)

The city is lovely, you can get what ever you might think of provisioning, but there is no yachting shop.

On the way to Seriphos our second toilet doors went off. We had to find some glue and clamp to fix it. The screws and other handy tools we found on gas station :)

Thankfully Martin is able to do these manual works, so we repaired the door that noone can recognise it right now. But I know it, so I will see it always walking around :(

On Wednesday morning we toked the bus to go up on the hill where is the old village. It is incredible that people hundreds years ago went up the hill daily. Of course, they used donkeys to bring up water and stuff, but these days to do the same, we cannot imagine :/

During our walks thru local small streets our kids found one pumpkin which was making strange sound like there is something inside. That inspired us to put in a map which Pavla draw before.

At the end we stayed here three nights, met few interesting yachtsmen and saw 30 regatta boats entering marina in 30kn wind. What an experience to see old professionals how they are operating in such a bad conditions without bow truster.

On Thursday we decided to leave the marina, even the weather was not great, but weather forecast showed us that Meltemi will continue in the strip over the Seriphos. So our next stop was in the bay called Farros on the island Sifnos in distance of 22nm.

This bay reminds us Caribbean. On one side there is amazing church, on the other side is sand beach with two restaurants. Quiet, clean water and happy kids :)

After lunch time, our kids opened the pumpkin and found the map which indicated the need to find out four other maps which creates the whole picture, where is the treasure.

Because it is so beautiful place, we decided to stay here two nights until Saturday morning.

We woke up at 4am and sailed to Ios island where we were supposed to find the other four pieces which will bring us to the treasure.

After 6 hours and 42nm of sailing we arrived into wery windy bay and stayed almost all the day.

This was the bay where we were navigated by the map from previous island. We founded three trees where we found three peaces of the map. The last piece was in the corner of the beach. This piece was immediately lost by Hugo :) Never mind, we were able to improvise and deduct that the treasure is on Santorini island.

Martin decided to rent windsurf and made us to look at him with an open mouth, because in such a heavy conditions he was doing great.

In the afternoon had to leave to Santorini to be early in the marina Vlichada to get some spot. We were lucky, because 15mins after us started to come local catamarans with tourists, so the marina became crowded.

At 1am arrived our filmmakers Miki and Jakub who are doing the documentary movie about us preparing for the big trip.

We spent together two days and did few shots on the beach, in the city called Fira and also on the boat. Right now there should be enough materials to create a teaser for the movie. I expect after the end of summer you might be able to see it on our channels.

Morning was quite shocking when the sound of crane behind our boat woke us up. They were deepening the bottom of the marina. My depth meter showed me only 0,2m depth there.

All Sunday we spent on the black stone/sand beach 5mins from the marina. Nice sunbads, nice bar and pleasant place for kids.

This beach was supposed to be the one with the treasure. We founded the tree and did 10 steps towards the beach as it was in the map. Of course we found the treasure of Atlantis. There were some sweets, necklaces, minions plasteline and some "gold stones".

In the afternoon we ordered taxi to take us to the city Fira where is beautiful view on the whole vulcano. If you want to have the feeling of climbing down to the vulcano, there are long stairs. For the lazy ones there is cableway.

We decided to go to the restaurant :)

Before that, I could not resist to Adina's wish to buy the Aphrodite's dress. You know father and hir princess :) Hugo wanted a magnetic donkey on the fridge :)

The only thing which we did not like about Fira, that it is so crowdy, that you have a hard time to find a spot in good restaurants. We had to wait 30mins to get a table.

One thing you notice when you have a monohull sailing boat, that there are mainly catamarans, because there is almost no chance to anchor anywhere. Only catamarans can go closer to middle islands Nea Kameni and Palea Kaimena.

During Monday we had one of worst experiences with harbour master as we did not have before. They were screaming at us, that we have to go to some berth and not the one we were at. We left the berth and turnerd around in front of marina and came back. The guy screamed at us again that we should not go to the spot which he pointed to for first time, but we should go to the one we were at before. You ask yourself why someone waste so much time and energy of few people for nothing.

In the evening all our friends had to leave us.

We immediately went on our next 32nm journey to the island Folegandros, where we arrived at 2am on Tuesday. Another lovely small bay with nice restaurants.

In the afternoon we sailed to Milos island 30nm into the city. We were lucky, that we catched nice spot at the city mall, so we could walk out directly to the restaurant.

After experience in marina on Santorini, we expected horrible approach to us by harbour master, but we were shocked how nice woman approached us, how smoothly she managed everything, even she offered us eggs from her own chickens, so we could have for breakfast.

Because I lost one paddle on dinghy, had to go to buy new one. I love this Nautilus shop, it was my second time there and you always find what you need. It looks like completely unorganized shelfs, but when you ask, they always find what you need.

After shopping we went to the restaurant on the main promenade. It was so far the worst food we had in Greece. I ordered spaghetti with lobster and I do think, that I will not come across again in upcomming months. Such a bad experience.

The only think I liked about the restaurant is the toy cars which they borrow to kids to play on the little square next to it.

On Wednesday we decided to stay in the marina and discover the island. Morning at the beach close to the city, because the water is very clean in all the bay. Found a great spot for kids with a playing area, nice bar and sandy beach.

Milos island is famous for discovery of Milos venus (called also Aphrodite of Milos from 400 BC) in 1820 in olive wood. This statue is exposed in Louvre. During the transport she lost both hands.

There are plenty things to visit such as caves on the sea level and also under the water called Kleftiko. This place was used by pirates to hide out.

Also would recommend colouful fisherman's village called Klima.

For people who don`t have possibility to travel around the island on their own, there are planty boat rentals with the captain. They have 3 route plans, west, east or round trip.

For our second evening on Milos we decided to precisely look for a good restaurant. This time we picked Navagio which is 5mins walk from the harbour towards to the beach. Really great food, just the service was not so great. Waitress were bringing starters before drinks and the food by one piece to each of us, not at one time.

But in Greece you get used to different rythm :)

Because there was 65nm journey in front of us to Poros island, we woke up at 3am an went on engine for 10 hours. This was the first day, when there was no wind, the sea looked like glass of water standing on the table.

I downloaded Albert Einstein's CV as an audio book, so I had a company during long night.

Kids woke up quite early at 7am, but thankfully sea was calm, they could run around and play.

We decided to spend our last afternoon and night in the Russian bay right next to Poros.

It is not the nicest place, but I do not know any other sand and quiet beach on the way to Athens.

It was small base for Russian navy from 19th century. Actually it was autonomous place in those times. These days there are ruins and it is classified as a historical monument.

The bistro reminds us 80s on some lakes in Czech Republic. With a bit of invention they could make great popup restaurant for the masses of tourists which are on the island.

On Friday afternoon we left at 2pm on engine to be at 6pm in the marina Kalamaki in Athens. Our friend Stavros spent with us one hour going thru the boat to get to know what needs to be fixed before our next sailing journey in October when I will go with my other 5 friends. The aim is to move Liberty from Athens to Sicily for the winter.

See our photos and video.


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